Sunday 22 May 2011

The Finishing Line

Sunday May 22nd.

The walk is over and I'm now sitting at my computer in sunny Exeter.

So, I need to complete the story for all those who have been interested enough to follow me across the country through these rambling blogs.

The last blog mentions the knee pain that had put my chances of completion in jeopardy. The thing is, I was naturally concerned that I would not be able to finish because I've had knee trouble for many years. Between them both, my knees have undergone 3 cartilage operations and, more seriously, a complete cruciate ligament repair. So at the end of day 12, I went to my tent a little anxious that I would awake to find the knee swollen and the pain still there.

However, the next morning I was relieved that there was no swelling and the pain was minimal.

Day 13. Blakely Ridge to Grosmont. 14 miles.

I decided to have a late start to give my knee every chance of a rest. So, after a great breakfast of muesli with grapefruit on top, a full English including black pudding, toast and lots of strong coffee, I set off (at 10.30)in the wind and rain.
When I had walked a few miles I found that I had a signal on my phone so called up my wife Jennie, who was on her way to Yorkshire with my very good friends Nadia and Dave. While I was talking to Jennie, an idea that had been fermenting in my brain, came blurting out. I had realised that the camp-site in Grosmont I was heading towards, was just 4 or 5 miles away from where Jennie would be staying, (in Whitby).
"Jennie, do you think it would be OK if I slept in Whitby tonight? You see, I am sick to death of putting up the tent and there are no showers at the camp-site."
It was as if Jennie knew that I was going to ask and I could hear all three of them saying that it would be a brilliant idea. Following some essential arrangements about time and place for Dave to collect me, I ended the call and walked on with a light heart, a skip to my step and whistling a merry tune.
As I happily strolled, alone, across Glaisdale Moor, a wonderful thing happened. It stopped raining, the sun came through a gap in the clouds and out of nowhere came the beautiful sound of a skylark singing. Then to my delight, it was joined by not one, but 4 more larks and I was treated to a heart wrenching symphony as they sang together, soaring and diving all around and above me. Mesmerised, I stood rooted to the spot for what seemed like 10 minutes, enjoying this fantastic natural concert, until they drifted down and landed just as the sun went in again.
I have heard larks singing before, but never have I had such a treat as this. It was an all too brief moment that I shall never forget.
When I arrived in Grosmont I was an hour and a half early. So I had to kill some time before Dave would be picking me up. The Station Tavern was a great place to kill some time and I found a nice comfy seat and had a couple of pints of Green King IPA. Earlier I'd bought the Guardian and enjoyed my time doing the crossword. When Dave arrived we were soon on the road for the short drive to the home of Dave's mum Lillian. When we arrived Lillian, Nadia and my darling Jennie were waiting to greet me. It was a surreal moment as they all stared at me and said how healthy I looked. It was a joy to be in comfortable surroundings. I had a lovely meal there joined by Dave's sister Dilys, and later we all strolled up the road to the pub. I was shattered and was happy to get back to the house and crawl into my comfortable bed, leaving them to carry on chatting and drinking, in the sitting room, without me. As I lay in the bed I reflected on what had been a wonderful day and I am sure I had a big smile on my face as I fell asleep.

Day.14 (the final day). Grosmont to Robin Hood's Bay. 16 miles.

The previous evening I told Dave that he would be more than welcome to join me on the last leg of my journey. I cannot think of a single person that I would rather have as my walking companion than him. We have spent countless hours in each other's company over the 30 years that we've been friends and we've never been short of conversation.
We set off from Grosmont at about 8.30. I told Dave about my experience with the skylarks and he was very envious. As we walked over Sleights moor a single lark put on a show for us and I was pleased that Dave was able to enjoy it.
Suddenly the pain in my knee hit in again. But, there was no way it was going to stop me now. I put the pain to the back of my mind and we walked on. At Littlebeck we came to a delightful cafe in the woods and we stopped for a pot of tea and a chocolate brownie. We were joined by Sue who I've met many times along the way. She told me that I should be pleased that I didn't camp at Grosmont, because a group of boys and girls had turned up there and had caused mayhem all night. As a result she had not managed to get much sleep and the experience had been rather disturbing. How lucky I had been to have avoided this. I can honestly say that, although I have been cold and wet on many of my nights of camping, I have still enjoyed the experience. It would have been a shame for me to have had that spoilt by one night of rowdiness. It was a pity that Sue had to put up with it though.
We were nearing the finish of the walk and as we walked along the 4 miles of coastline that leads to Robin Hood's bay I was struggling to control my emotions. Texts of encouragement and congratulations only fuelled these feelings. I managed to keep most of it bottled up but as I walked down to the Bay Hotel and saw Jennie waiting for me I gave in to my happy emotions. Also there were people that I had met along the way including Steve and Sam, Geoff and his brother Mike, Alan, and Sue and her husband. I was trying to keep my emotions in check but it will have been obvious to them that I was very moved by the occasion.
I asked that I be left to walk down to the sea's edge by myself and with my back to my friends, old and new, I was able to allow myself to cry as I took the hundred or so steps to the lapping water of the North Sea. Once there I removed my walking boots and socks and paddled in the cold but refreshing water. Then I took the pebble that I had carried for more than 200 miles from the beach at St Bees and threw it as far as I could out to sea.
Job done. I was very proud of myself.

One last thing.

I have met some lovely people on my trip and I know that, because of my pathetic memory, I will have forgotten many of their names. Some were at the finish but many were not. Good people like Richard the dairy farmer; Dave from Cornwall; Roger and his daughter Lynne, Alan and his daughter Beth; Bob, Ron, Pauline, Joyce, Brieda, Linda and Douglas from North Wales and Graham from London. But there was one person who helped me more with advice and encouragement and that is Trevor. Trevor and I got to know each other very well as we walked along together and drank and ate together. We talked of our wives and our children, we discussed politics and religion, we marvelled at the fantastic scenery, we helped each other through the bogs and we laughed a lot at the crazy situations from our lives and from the walk that we started together 14 days ago.

I had intended to try to do this walk on my own. I am so happy to say that my intentions have failed.

I reported in a previous blog that Trevor and his brilliant dog Alfred had dropped out of the walk because Alfred's paws were too sore for him to continue. I genuinely believed this to be true. I now know that Trevor and Alfred made it to the end and finished a day before me. I am absolutely delighted for them both. Well done Trevor and well done Alfred.






Take care.

The END

Rob

virginmoneygiving.com/RobSetter

Thursday 19 May 2011

Knees the knees

I knew that today was going to be hard work, so I got up early and after 4 weetabix, I set off at 6.45. The guide book said it should take about 8 hours to walk the 21 miles to Blakey Ridge. The sun was shining and I was feeling good. After climbing and more climbing I was soon on the high Yorkshire moors. Suddenly the North Sea could be seen away in the distance. "I know" I thought, "now would be a great time to phone Rebecca, Joe and Lucy to tell them how well I am doing".
So, I did just that and it was lovely to chat to them all and tap into the encouragement that came from them all. With a warm glow in my heart, I merrily started to climb down the hill in front of me. Suddenly.... Bang..... It felt like someone had kicked me in the side of my right knee. Another step forward and the pain was still there. I sat down for a while to collect my thoughts. The trouble was that I was at the top of a very steep decent. So, gingerly I made my way down by putting as much weight on my walking poles and my left leg as I could. It took ages and was not pain free. Eventually I reached level ground and limped along the path to a conveniently placed cafe. I ordered a pot of tea and a bacon and egg roll. I put my leg up for about 30 minutes. When I started walking again, the pain was much less and although there was occasional pain, I managed to walk it off. But, my progress was very slow. Instead of taking me 8 hours, I took 9 and a half hours.
Hopefully I will not have a repeat of this tomorrow.
Can I mention all the fun that I have had writing these blogs. I have tried to be accurate and truthful. Also it is wonderful to know that people enjoy reading them. It amazes me to discover that there are 254 people following my blogs. Some I know well, others I don't know, but they know someone who knows me, like Kathryn and Hayley who know my daughter Rebecca.
For anybody who is keeping tabs on how much I am drinking, tonight I have had 3 pints of Wainwright ale to lubricate the gammon and pineapple that I have just devoured.

Just two days to go.

Take care.

Rob.
virginmoneygiving.com/RobSetter

Wednesday 18 May 2011

The legs make an appearance

Day 11. Danby Wiske to Ingleby Cross. 10 miles.

A short stroll of just 10 miles today. Not a hill to climb and the wind at my back.
I had planned that today should be easy so that I am fit and ready for the 3 long and difficult days that lie between me and Robin Hood's Bay.
Not a spot of rain has fallen and although the sun only appeared in short spells, it has been a great day for walking. I walked alone today which made a change.
Along the route can be found stalls that have drinks, fruit and chocolate bars with an honesty box for payments. Having passed a few of these without buying anything, I decided to buy a banana from a stall that was clearly set up by some children to raise a bit of money for charity. It was the best flavoured banana that I have tasted for quite a while.
On the subject of food, I have eaten more on this trip than I would normally eat. In fact I have scoffed like a Tudor King. But despite this indulgence, I am able to proudly declare that I have discovered a hole on my belt that has never been used before. Tonight for example, I am sitting in the Blue Bell Inn having just devoured a plate of white bait followed by a fillet steak, chips, onion rings, mushrooms, peas and coleslaw all washed down with 2 pints of Guinness.
I toyed with the idea that I wouldn't drink on this walk, but have failed miserably. However, I feel it's my duty to support struggling local businesses. Hic.
As mentioned in the title of this blog, my legs made their first appearance today. (Photo included). This didn't last long as the wind was rather chilly and I was causing rather a commotion, being chased by many local lovely ladies. Sorry girls, but I have had to cover up in the name of safety.



With a hilly walk of 21 miles ahead of me tomorrow, I should get an early night and an early start. So, I'm off to bed.

Take care.

Rob.



virginmoneygiving.com/RobSetter

Tuesday 17 May 2011

My friends across the pond

Day 10. Richmond to Danby Wiske
14 miles - Total 139 miles done.

When you last heard from me I was just about to settle down for a sleep of hibernation proportions. I put on the television and discovered that "Sixth Sense" was about to start. Perfect, a film that I didn't want to watch; which is just as well because I was asleep before the credits were over. I don't even remember turning off the telly. Come to think of it I don't remember anything until I woke at about 7.00 am. Anyone who knows about my insomniacal habits (I think I have just made up a word) will be aware how rare it is for me to sleep for so long. I made myself the obligatory cup of "English Breakfast" tea, then went downstairs to breakfast.
There are certain things that I only ever eat for breakfast when I am staying in a hotel or B&B.
"I'll have the porridge, followed by smoked haddock and poached eggs please".
It was delicious. I'll have a breakfast like this every morning before I go to work, from now on.
Sadly and with a lump in my throat, I said goodbye to my lovely, lovely room, but not before helping myself to two sachets of hot chocolate and the shampoo, conditioner and shower gel; a practice which is compulsory and welcomed by all B&B owners.

Can I point out that there has been a criticism of my use of grammar in these blogs. What my lovely daughter Lucy fails to realise is that her lovely mother and my lovely wife Jennie is editing these rambles. And doing a fine job too.

At 9.15 I hit the road and walked alone for an hour or so; lost in my thoughts and humming a merry tune. I saw in the distance two fellow walkers and soon caught them up. I had briefly met with Steve and Sandra (or Sam as she prefers to be called) before. Steve and Sam are Americans. I remember seeing Steve in a pub in St Bees on the night before I (and they) started walking. I didn't know them then. What I witnessed was just like a scene from "Fawlty Towers".
"A gin and tonic and a Manhattan cocktail, please innkeeper".
The landlady placed a gin and tonic on the bar.
"I'm sorry sir, but we don't have that drink you asked for. Would you like anything else?"
"Not really. And wadda ya mean you don't have it. You have to make it."
In true British custom, a hush fell across the bar and all the customers (including me) looked at the floor.
"You take 1 part bourbon and a half a part sweet martini", said Steve.
"Is that 1 measure of bourbon sir?"
"How the hell should I know. Ok, make it one measure, and add a half a measure of sweet martini, some bitters, crushed ice and top it off with a cocktail cherry. Is that possible. Please".
"I'm ever so sorry sir, but I can't sell you a half measure of sweet martini. I can only sell full measures"
"You're kidding me right. What the heck? Ok, sell me a full measure and I'll pour half of it away."
Eventually, following a discussion about not having any crushed ice, but having plenty of cherries and a bottle of bitters, Steve got his Manhattan cocktail and he was extremely polite to the "inn keeper" as he disappeared into the beer garden.
Everybody in the bar looked up from the floor and continued their conversations as if nothing had happened.
It is possible that Steve bought another Manhattan. But I left the pub soon after the free entertainment was concluded.
Anyway, I walked with Steve and Sam for about 3 hours today and they were great company. I discovered that they come from New Hampshire. Steve used to be a diplomat and travelled the world, with Sam, rubbing shoulders with some pretty powerful people. I'm sure he could tell a few stories, if he got drunk. When we arrived at The White Swan at Danby Wiske, where we are staying, (them in the pub and poor old me in the garden), Steve bought me a pint.

Right, it is now 6.30 pm and I am going into the pub to eat and to try to get Stevie boy drunk.

"Inn keeper. Two Manhattan cocktails".

Take care.

Rob.

virginmoneygiving.com/RobSetter

Monday 16 May 2011

Into the lap of luxury

Following 9 days of walking in generally atrocious weather, struggling up (and down) relentless hills, getting lost, falling over, putting up and packing away a wet tent, trying to sleep in a damp sleeping bag and eating some terrible dehydrated meals, I now find myself enjoying a taste of indulgence.
One person's indulgence is another's normality.
The Old Brewery in Richmond is a small B&B come hotel. It has about 8 rooms and is comfortable. I hurried my walk a little today and as a result arrived at 1.00 pm. After checking in, I did something that I have not done in over a year.....I had a bath. I had forgotten how lovely it is. I even made myself a cup of tea and balanced it carefully on the side of the tub. Then when I'd finished, I put on my complimentary bath robe and fell asleep for a short while on my comfy, comfy bed.




Apart from a quick stroll to a shop to buy a pasty the Guardian and some salted peanuts, I haven't left my room. And I have no intention of doing so until breakfast time. The night life of Richmond will have to do without my input.
Sadly, I think that Trevor has had to give up today. Alfred's paws were too sore. I have thoroughly enjoyed their company over the many hours we have spent together.

Sweet dreams.

Take care.



Rob.


virginmoneygiving.com/RobSetter

I love the caravanning life

Day 8. Sunday 14 May 2011 Keld to Reeth.
The wonderful people who own the marvellous Park House campsite gave Trevor, Alfred and me a marvellous send off by serving up delicious fried egg and bacon baguettes, piping hot tea and coffee (Alfred didn't have the drinks). I was sorry to leave, but there was no time to hang about. Trevor and I have agreed that we will do this leg of the journey together and then I would walk on my own from Reeth onwards. Walking on my own is part of my plan, but it's been a wonderful experience meeting many of my fellow walkers. Whether it's chatting as we try not to get lost, or having a laugh in the pub, I have really enjoyed getting to know them.
Alfred is struggling and the pads of his paws are being worn away by the wet conditions and the rough ground. He started the day wearing a pair of dog shoes on his front paws, but he tripped from time to time and after he'd got them wet, Trevor took them off. Alfred has done very well to have reached this far along the walk but it's starting to look like he may not make the finish.
On the subject of not finishing the walk, it has become very noticeable that there are fewer people walking over the last 2 or 3 days. There is a lot of limping going on and I have heard some horrendous stories of blisters the size of a fried egg. As for me, I am increasingly tired at the end of each walk and don't have enough time to recover before walking again. I don't have any blisters but the heel of my right foot is painful at times. My calves and ankles are aching constantly. But I do feel strong and mentally very focussed. I will finish this walk but I may be limping over the finishing line.


Anyway, it was a lovely walk and the rain stayed away. We met with Clive and Clare who joined me in a cup of tea and a slice of carrot cake. Trevor walked on as dogs were not allowed in the cafe. The route followed the River Swale in a picturesque 12 mile stroll. I arrived at the campsite at Reeth at about 4.30 pm. The owner likes coast to coast walkers and he let Trevor and me stay in a caravan each. Sheer luxury and a great opportunity to get some kit dried. Later we went to the Black Bull where I drank 3 pints of IPA and ate fishcakes, chips and salad, followed by gooseberry crumble and cream. Then back to my caravan to sleep some energy back into my system.
112 miles done and the end is distantly in sight.

Take care.

Rob

virginmoneygiving.com/RobSetter

Bog bog blog

Saturday 14 May 2011

From Kirkby Stephen to Keld is 15 miles. It starts with a steep, steep climb up to the Nine Standard Rigg. This is a very spectacular site, but it was absolutely freezing. Then followed a stretch of 4 or 5 miles of boggy land that occasionally had some fun by causing me to suddenly plummet up to my shins in freezing slime. I made it through but my boots let me down.
I saw a couple of grouse which I was able to identify because of the adverts for ”Famous Grouse”. Other birds that I have seen are - curlew, wheatears, dippers, a wonderful group of thrushes and goosander. I have not been able to spot a red squirrel but I did see an adder.

Although today's walk has been shortish I am finding each day very tiring and am now off to bed.

Take care

Goodnight.

Rob

virginmoneygiving.com/RobSetter